Відео

I can tell ya that I lowered the temp in my previous home nearly 5 degrees by installing a powered fan. They do work and happy to say I'm putting another one in my new home.

2ft for a water line. NY is at 8ft down.

Warranty?

so yall get together like this and say yeah the 50 gallon water heater is perfect for an attic!

Have you thought about a water softener?

Outside gentrifying whiteman lives here for 10 years and calls homeless people "bums". . . Nice Job Matt. . . go back to Texas. Btw, people started "moving out" in the late 50s when they built freeways thru black neighborhoods out into the new stripmall society.

Amazing!

5:50 in Germany it is usual to put the drains under the slab but it's evolved a bit better. There are funnels sealing the pipes and slab from gas, water or radon from the underground and allows you to move the pipe inside the funnel. So if the half of a wall is on top its easier to change the pipe. Google "Hauff Anschlusstrichter AT110"

I too label pipes and conduits. It’s professional and labeling completes one’s work. After occupancy starts It doesn’t take long for confusion or puzzlement to set in. Or the person who knows what and why a pipe or circuit or support exists, isn’t available. For outdoor labels and some indoor labels I use engraved phenalic (plastic) labels….essentialy what are sometimes used on office doors or employees desks. Not expensive. Ask for phenalic rated for exterior use.

That plumbing meeting was painful. Most of your work is top notch but watching that as a commercial plumber from Canada hurt, or code wouldn't allow most of that

Heck of a lot easier to just build out a basement and put all your mechanicals and systems in the easily accessible basement - better yet, build said basement w/ multiple access points, such as direct access from the garage, from the 1st floor and another direct access via the backyard (even if it requires a “forced walk-out”), then y’all can add a few “day-light” windows for legal egress, thus having a great amount of “conditioned” storage space, true storm-safety locations and eventually, legally acknowledged space that can be finished out at arguably a lower $/sqft rate than the builder would charge if s/he did the build-out…. having owned, as personal residences, 15 homes, btwn 2800-5000 sqft, over the last 30 yrs (TN, GA, MN, OH, NJ, NC, OH, IN, TX and now AR), we’ve always preferred basement homes…. WALDT

SANCO sounds like a rebadged SANDEN model.

Your doctor wife just cringed when you said "blood veins".

building a home here in Colorado - the challenge I hear from builders is that water coming to the unit is 45-50 degrees and tankless can't keep up with needing to heat and distribute hot water.

❤

It's only a matter of time until I get shown one of these 3D model things and asked to give an estimate on a central vac (that's what I do). Everyone wants to send me the 2D plan drawings and seem surprised that I can't see what I need...

Why did you destroy a slab to install plumbing with the intent of pouring a new slab on top? We install the plumbing first then pour the slab.

Does your plumber run the gas lines too?

why cant the plumbers terminate the pipes right below the top surface of the slab, with foam or something around and on top of the pipe, so that when concrete is poured it can be screeded and finished without bumping into the pipes? you could just cut away a thin square over each pipe after, pull away the foam and couple more pipe to it. i know a typical concrete crew would probably trample submerged pipes but it would just be so much easier to pour without those f*cking pipes sticking out. has nobody really done that? also, why is there not a product, from stego, where its a vapor barrier sheet made into a tube and then flattening out into a square so you can have clean tape lines around the pipe and on the vapor barrier laid on the ground for plumbing coming up through slabs? trying to seal a hole in vapor barrier by wrapping tape around a zillion times is just so unsatisfying and will never be as tight as having some shaped piece of plastic specific for that purpose...

I like the idea breaking that thermal bridge from interior to exterior however first😂 shot from the framing gun and it split the wood. Not to say that that doesn’t happen with regular lumber just saying but definitely less with 2 x 6 lumber.

He mentions you could use rebar instead of a 5/8" smooth rod. Never. You do not use rebar. The rough bar would push the large aggregate to the bottom.

"primary bedroom" LOL can't call it a "master bedroom" anymore because that would imply that there are "slave bedrooms." <Stoopid>

There are two new small commercial builds in the small coastal city in NJ where I live. They placed the interior concrete floor slab then not too long after proceeded to jackhammer the whole thing out. A local contractor told me if they made a mistake on under slab piping they are not allowed to just jack hammer out a small area to move the pipe. The slab has to be monolithic. Does this sound right? Is it because we are in a flood zone. Thanks for any input.

As much as I dearly love a basement, I can't disagree that slab on grade directly on top of solid bedrock makes for an inarguably solid house.

This series has me watching. Its a house very much like what I intend to build for myself, only change being in Colorado here I'd want a basement But this build is like;y going to show me what I'm in for when the time comes.

Anyone find any updates on this shower? would love to see how this held up.

Smart move on the outer drain PVC to be used as an outer tube for the water outside the house. In planning, I would have done the same thing for the fresh water plumbing under the slab. A few years ago I had to replace all my under the slab fresh water (city water) pipes by going through the attic to the various locations since there is no under slab access. Of course the original pipes started leaking under the foundation. Age of course. If I were to be planning/building/remodeling a new/old house, I would have put in a 2" PVC pipe to each of the plumbing locations and pulled 3/4" PEX tubing through the 2" PVC. I would use (2) inch 45 degree angle connectors for each turn as the PEX would move through a few 45 degree angles than a 90 degree angle. You could actually pull in 2 new PEX tubes one for current use and one caped for future use. Five or six years ago I had to replace my city water feed from the cities water meter to the far side of my house. Of course it was redone with 3/4' PVC. About a week later the city was putting in new digital water meters and twisted my PVC pipe causing a crack on the inside of my property line, unknown to them. The city water worker was checking the meter install and saw that the meter was constantly running. She knocked on the door and informed me. I fixed it and the city did not bill me for any water over my monthly average. That is when I thought about the next time digging up the city water pipe and installing a 2" PVC pipe as a protective tube and be used for easy reinstall of 3/4" PEX tubing the next time there is a leak.

Ok I’ve never seen sandbags like that. I so wish they had been discussed and not skipped over. Isn’t that a big section under the slab that will not be solid…? I mean there is nothing to glue in essence the sand in the bag together. The cement poured over will create an encapsulated cavity of loose sand and air pockets that the cement doesn’t get in between.

great to watch professionals planning this out, it gives you a nice insight of what goes into a quality build.

I put hot and cold water lines in the slab by running ENT conduit as a sleeve. The pex pipe is pulled through once the framing is up. (I use the Canadian brand because in California it is less expensive.)

It too bad you didn't install water lines in the slab Install pex in pipe You're missing a huge opportunity to save time and money by installing water lines in the slab When you install pex in pipe you will have replaceable plumbing Why would not want this

$2.12 a sq ft. Is crazy, costing more than the tile itself

If someone recommends you a flat roof on your house.... RUN

I thought induction is more efficient than resistance heating.

All the fancy doodads are great for installers, but homeowners get to deal with the fun of tech crapping out in 5 years. Same with modern cars.

lets go baby!

Will this work with fuel oil???

Spraying some clear over those chalk lines works too… ask me how I know. 😉

Michigan accent is cool

Features that save the plumber time? Why would they want to get rid of billable time?

Absoluter Blödsinn. Auch alte Gebäude kann man dämmen. Absolut rückständige Aussagen. Sorry als Energieberater aus Deutschland. 👎👎👎🇩🇪

What are the 130, 160, 180. 199 designations for? Are these designations about the size of the house? Can you elaborate? Thanks!

That's great if you want/have Gas (of some sort)... 2 questions: First, is it available for Electric use? (I care about the Planet, and the continued use of Fossil Fuels.) And Second: What is the max Water Temp available to the Home Owner? (If you say "125 degrees, of course"...Thant's a non-starter. I just replaced a Water Heater, and had a HUGE argument with the Plumbing company to set the WH Temp to 145 (the max available.) I shower at at least 130 degrees (no, really.) If you try and run your WH at Max without mixing Cold Water in, you lose Capacity (whether heated Tank capacity, or BTU Throughput in a Tankless.)

I have a similar situation; we got our 100 year old home spray foamed. The attic roof was spray foamed with close cell foam 6 inches thick between the rafters but not the rafters themselves. We live in Canada, zone 7. after 14 years, the ridge board and upper rafters have rotted. I believe this is due to the rafters not receiving spray foam as well, and therfore acting as a conduit for water vapor to reach the cold roof decking and condensing. Thoughts ?

I have an aging standard propane fired water heater tank and a new Grundfos smart recirculating pump with a 2800 SqFt two story house with only three people. Is a unit like this or a heat pump type unit the best option? California electricity is ridiculously high in price.

Unless it can run off free solar energy, not interested.

Stop with the ap crap. Why on earth do I need to add an ap for fricken water heater.

If it last twice as long with maintenance, what is the costs of said maintenance over that time period and which costs more in the end? My gas was 1.75 a unit last month, what is the point?

Can you do a video on their glass doors like the versions behind you?

Will the largest unit be able to handle 5 showers used at the same time?